Posts Tagged 'Surf'

Places | Guéthary

Almost two years to the day later, I found myself back in Basque country. Like my first visit, I came for work but this time I got to see more of that which surrounds. Guéthary is a mini version of California a sort of “best of” North and South.

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Places | I ♡ Biarritz

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People | Rick Lasch

spanish bombs

SURF, STORIES

My friend Rick happened to be in Del Mar the same weekend I was in La Jolla, so we spent the afternoon catching up at Swamis. One of the things I shared with him was that I had met Kelly Slater in person while I was at Saturdays Surf NYC; Kelly was in New York after his 10th world championship. In return, Rick told me about his first run in with Kelly. A bit more meaningful than mine, his story went like this.

He was free surfing at Sebastian Inlet, Florida before his PSAA tour event. Out in the water with him was Mike Lambresi, the US surfing champion at the time. The two of them were at a spot called “Spanish House”; Kelly was surfing the next bank up. Rick said he remembers seeing Kelly catch a little running left that was moving away from them. Next thing they knew, Kelly was flying down the line, then out of nowhere he threw up a big rotating air … nearly pulling it off.

“Watching it was ridiculous” Rick said, “Kelly must have been about 15 years old at the time; no one was doing that stuff back then”. He said he remembered looking at Mike and saying: “as soon as Kelly starts landing those, our careers are over”, and that Mike chuckled and agreed. As they say, the rest is history.  I learned two new surf things from Rick that day: one, what a “10-point rotator” is, and two, that throwing 10-point rotators started a LONG time ago …
Photos courtesy of Nick Edwards

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Things | Lone Palms

 

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Places | Deus Canngu

easy rider

LIFESTYLE SHOP, BALI

Deus is a lifestyle brand with stores located in Australia, New Zealand, Bali and as of a couple a months ago: Venice Beach, California. However, the Canngu Bali location I recently visited (appropriately named “Temple of Enthusiasm”) is something in and of itself …

Part curated store, art gallery, artist space and garage  (where they deconstruct vintage motorbikes then powder coat and rework them into mint condition) Deus Canngu is a creative commune of sorts. One building is a pristine white photo studio, opposite that there’s a shaping bay and at the front of it all, a Thai food restaurant and a bar.  With comfy couches amidst all this good stuff and the Balinese lushness that abounds, it’s easy to see how this place has quickly become the local go to spot for getting together with like-minded friends.

“Deus Ex Machina” is hard to define because it’s not just one thing.  I think Dare Jennings, the Australian creator of Mambo, must have conceived his love child of a brand with this concept in mind but unlike the many places that try to do: “lifestyle”, he’s one of the few that not only succeeded in doing it right; in the process he also created his own cultural hub.

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Places | Finn’s Beach Club, Bali

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Places | Uluwatu, Bali

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Things | Surf Screen

self made

SURF YOGIS, BALI

In Bali I came across Surf Yogis surf screen. I really loved its earthy-looking packaging — which surprisingly held up better around water than I would have thought. I was also drawn to its (almost only) natural ingredients: virgin coconut oil, bee’s wax, cocoa powder, cocoa butter and zinc oxide. I found it to be a cool alternative to all the chemically loaded sunscreens.

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Places | Bukit Pennisula, Bali

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